Whatever your preconceived notions of Palm Springs may be, they most likely would be changed forever by a visit to the city.
 
This is certainly the opinion I had when I relocated here recently. But I have discovered that this jewel of the desert has undergone a renaissance of sorts. In the past 50 years, Palm Springs has gone from Hollywood playground, to college student spring break destination, and finally to what it is today: a hotspot of arts and culture.

N. Palm Canyon Drive, the main street of Palm Springs, is a glowing testament to the overhaul Sonny Bono gave the town as mayor from 1988 to 1992. Disgusted with the spring break debauchery and seedy reputation the town had procured, Bono made instrumental changes such as back-lighting the palm trees lining the main street, creating a weekly town bazaar called Village Fest, and abolishing billboards, motels, and yes, even thongs. These efforts set into motion the transformation that made Palm Springs what it is today.

One of the first great attractions you'll encounter upon arriving in town is the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (One Tramway Rd., 800-515-TRAM). The Tram travels almost 6,000 feet up the beautiful Chino Canyon. The activities at the top range from guided hiking tours, to fine dining and camping.

The best way I've found to experience all of the shopping, galleries, and great restaurants that Palm Springs has to offer is to take stroll down Palm Canyon Dr. Parking is available by meter on the street, but there is also a multi-story parking garage located on Baristo Rd. between Palm Canyon and Indian Canyon Drives. Travel north down Palm Canyon, paying close attention to the sidewalk; Palm Springs has it's very own walk of stars, including such famous names as Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra.

As you browse through the hundreds of stores and eateries at you disposal, be sure to try and hit these, true embodiments of Palm Springs:

J. Behman Gallery and Desert Fine Arts Academy: 1000 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760-320-6806. Not only does this gallery boast a large array of contemporary art, but due to its pairing with the DFAA, offers children's and adult workshops and art demonstrations.

La Lupe LTD.:  463 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760-323-5334. La Lupe specializes in collectible Mexican art, ranging from religious to kitsch.

The Palm Springs Follies: 128 S. Palm Canyon Dr., 760-327-0225. Touted as "the most fun you can have in Palm Spring," the Follies (which run from November to May) are truly a Palm Springs institution. The cast is comprised entirely of troupers ranging in age from 56 to 87 years old, giving the Follies a unique and fun spin on the traditional show.

Howard's Hollywood Hangout: 245 S. Palm Canyon Dr. Ste. A5, 760-327-4838. With the only hookah bar in the valley, Howard's is the desert destination when you're in search of a good cigar and better company.

Las Casuelas Terraza: 222 S. Palm Canyon Dr., 760-325-2794. A restaurant consistently chosen as a "Best in the Valley" by locals, Las Casuelas offers casual Mexican dining in a fun, upbeat environment. Mondays through Fridays from 4:30-6:30, is hosts a rocking happy hour complete with an in-house band.

NOW (or Never on Wednesday): 476 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 866-327-0550. Open everyday of the week (except Wednesdays, of course!), NOW is one of the city's trendiest, most talked-about restaurants. Featuring American fusion cuisine, executive chef Heath Millett has been named one of Dining Out Magazine's best chefs in 2003.

Village Fest: every Thursday night from 7-10 p.m., on Palm Canyon Dr. between Amado and Baristo. Village Fest, begun by Sonny Bono, is one of the must-dos when visiting Palm Springs. Vendors sell everything from coffee to incense, from polish dogs to art, as several local musicians and magicians display their talents along the stretch of road. Village Fest acts as a farmer's market, arts and crafts fair, concert, and diner all rolled into one, entertaining night. Plus, this is one of the best places to people watch, as it brings out some of the more colorful locals (including, my personal favorite, a couple who inexplicably dress as though they're in the wild west every week).

Spa Resort and Casino: casino, 401 E. Amado Rd., 888-999-1995; hotel, 100 N. Indian Canyon Dr., 888-999-1995. Built and owned by the Agua Caliente Band of Mission Indians (who were the first settlers of the area), the Spa Resort and Casino offers a respite from the desert heat, with gaming, dining, and one of the best day spas around. The natural mineral pools alone make a trip to this resort worth it.

One caution when planning a visit to Palm Springs: the summers here are unseasonably hot, with average July temperatures well over 105 degrees. Coolers months (such as September through June) are recommended for those sensitive to heat.

All in all, Palm Springs has once again become a fun, classy place to visit, and even a better place to live.